Weekend in Caracoi Cimai
In late July it’s as hot in Italy as in Alabama. The mountains kept calling us out of the heat and into the crisp mountain air, so we answered. Cool air, hiking, adventure, scenic drive, superb photography, good food, good people, and relaxation - yes, take me there. We did what I call “a proper weekend in the Dolomites.” Keep reading to find out how we spent 4 days in Caracoi Cimai, Caprile, and Alleghe.
Where Did You Stay?
We stayed at Rocca B&B in a hilltop village. The hosts, Charlotte and Hans, live on-site and the house is well cared for. They both speak multiple languages so we had no concerns when it came to open communication. They have two cute and friendly dogs. If you are guilty of sleeping in and daytime napping like us, then the dogs may interrupt your sleep. It’s nothing to be overly concerned about since you’ll be out exploring anyway. If you’re in need of some suggestions, Charlotte and Hans can tell you where to eat, hike, and explore. They may even have some discount coupons available. They are very kind and helpful.
As of Jan 2021, the hosts are offering weekend “B&B Experiences.” Click here to read more details and for booking information.
Upon arrival, we found homemade brownies and bottle water on the dresser. The room had its own private bathroom, closet, and a balcony pointed right at Monte Civetta. The view of Monte Civetta from our room was like no other I’ve seen thus far. Perfectly pink flowers line the balcony rail to brighten up the greenery blanketing the hills and dark gray mountains with white peaks. The bed was fluffy and husband did not waste anytime before lying down on it. The house was aesthetically pleasing and cozy. The taverna has a lovely dining room on the ground floor with a full kitchen, refrigerator, and a fireplace. The fridge is well stocked with a few things like water, beer, wine, and a few snacks. You take what you want, mark down on a sheet of paper what you took, and pay before you leave. Breakfast is included in the stay and Charlotte puts out plenty of options. It’s a typical Italian continental breakfast of meats, cheeses, super yummy bread, yogurt, granola, homemade marmalade, and nuts. She even brought us some special homemade bread one morning. They have a coffee making machine that’ll have any southerner say, “well, ain’t that somethin…..”
Charlotte and Hans have put just the right touches on the Rocca B&B to make it feel like a home away from home. Honestly, we had to make ourselves leave the house because it was very peaceful and relaxing. We did only one hike and opted to relax the second day. Pathetic as it may seem, it was very refreshing and we aren’t mad about it. It’s a close 2.5 hour drive so we can return for more hiking at any point. I believe the accommodations can make or break your trip. Whether it’s a weekend trip or 10 day trip, we want a comfortable place to relax when we’re done with our daily adventures and this B&B fulfilled that requirement without breaking the bank.
If you are traveling with a group, Charlotte & Hans have apartments in the town of Rocca Pietore. You can view the listing here.
The drive up to the hilltop village is about 3km along a tricky road. The road is basically one lane by US standards, with several potholes, and many switchbacks. I’ve posted a time-lapse video below to give you an idea. If you’re a nervous driver, or unskilled in the area of switchbacks and potholes, you may want to ask Charlotte for suggestions. She did inform us the road is supposed to be improved by next summer.
Rocca B&B Photos
What Did You Do?
Shop
Friday: On the way up to the Dolomites, we decided to make a pit stop at a large antique shop. The shop had everything. We were there about an hour just looking at the furniture, books, and knick-knacks. I saw two small chests that interested me greatly, i.e. I want one! Instead, I picked up a travel book of Venice which was written in English and Italian. I went to pay for it and the cashier whistled to the rather busy gentleman who ran the place I guess. Then, she gifted me the book! I was stoked - like I had just won the lotto.
Since it was raining, we decided to skip the stop at Molinetto della Croda. It’s a 17th century water mill which I thought would make for some nice photos. Even though, we didn’t make it this time, maybe you can add this stop to your itinerary.
This is the route from Vicenza to Caracoi Cimai with the two stops mentioned above: click here.
Relax
After arriving at Rocca B&B, we unpacked, I took photos of the house, and husband napped for the second time that day. Later, we strolled through the quaint mountain village, then went to Caprile for dinner and walked around town.
Hike
Saturday: After a short 25 minute drive we arrived at Malga Ciapela around 09:30. We hit the trail to Malga Ombretta. There are several places to park which I have highlighted in yellow on the map. The red line directs you to the trail head. The parking lot is right by the Marmolada lift (aqua colored circle) which is on Sunday’s agenda.
The hike was the best one I’ve done yet. I did not say “easy,” because once you start the trail you are ascending for about three miles. You plateau for about a mile or less, then start ascending again to the last rifugio. The first rifugio we stopped at, Malga Ombretta, for a snack, breather, and to take in the views. The bathrooms were locked so we turned to mother nature as needed. I was able to take some wonderful photos of the mountains, cows, and hikers. Rifugio Cai served actual food unlike the first rifugio which was fine because we had our own snacks. At Rifugio Cai we had a bowl of spaghetti and a beverage. It was soooooo good and very reasonably priced at €7,50.
Parking: https://goo.gl/maps/9erVwVkX45xb15r69 First rifugio: Malga Ombretta Rifugio at the end of the trail: Rifugio Onorio Falier All'Ombretta - Rifugio Cai
Rode the lift at Marmolada, Queen of the Dolomites
Sunday: We wanted to spread out our activities, so we returned to Marmolada on Sunday to ride the lift to the top. I heard mixed reviews but I figured that would probably be about all the adrenaline rush I needed, so we did it. Y’all……ugh hum…..if it’s your first time taking a lift, first time seeing a glacier (let alone the largest one in the Dolomites), or you’re wanting to visit a war museum and have a fun ride - take the Marmolada lift! Note: the altitude at the top is 10,711 ft./3265m.
Adult entry fee: €33 each round trip
Other options to see the Marmolada Glacier.
Passo Pordoi - recommended by Outside This Small Town (she was the inspiration behind this trip)
Alleghe
Sunday evening: We strolled through the beautiful town of Alleghe. After a meal of pork, potatoes, deer meat, and pasta we took a walk around the town side of Lago di Alleghe. Such a dreamy way to finish off this day.
Piani di Pezzè
Monday: Before hitting the road back to Vicenza, we stopped off at a small town above Alleghe called Piani di Pezze. This stop was suggested by Hans. There is a lift from Alleghe to Piani di Pezze, but we drove up and payed like €2 to park for three hours. This is a ski resort in the winter, but a fantastic place to be in the summer. In the town, there is a family park called Ally Farm, restaurants, hiking trail, swimming hole, a lift, picnic areas, public restrooms, an explorer area for older kids to zipline, walk tight ropes, and climb.
We took a walk up the hill just to be outdoors in that atmosphere for a little longer. We got hungry and returned to Alleghe for lunch at Bierstube Alleghe. Then, headed home. Home sweet home.
If you’re interested in taking children to Ally Farm, here is a more informed post on the topic.
Where Did You Eat?
San Marco - pizzeria in Caprile.
Hotel alla Posta - fine dining in Caprile.
Bierstube Alleghe - pub vibes with fantastic food. We ate here twice.
If you visit the Alleghe and Caprile area, please share your experience in the comments below. I have so much to learn and I’m sure others would appreciate it also. If you have any questions about what I’ve posted, ask it in the comments or send me a message.
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For more tourist info on Caprile, I recommend this site.
